Happy New Year from Tallinn!!

Fireworks over Old Town Tallinn




Fireworks from the best balcony in the world

Marine Ball Detachment, Tallinn

The Few. The Proud.

As my friend Bridget would say, "If that's the knife, I'd like to see the fork."

Marine Ball Detachment, Tallin

***All photos not taken by me.

It says "Butt"

This Little American Went to the Market...

Christmas Market in Old Town Square, Tallinn, Estonia.

My Moment of Zen

I just listened to my first Shostakovich concerto - an activity that was banned in the Soviet Union. That's the kind of stuff I live for: listening to banned Shostakovich in a place that was occupied by the Soviet Union, shopping for Plastic People of the Universe CDs in Prague, and reading Lolita in Tehran. Ok, not the last one. Yet.

Mr. Allsop Started the Fire

How cool would it be to have the lyrics to the song "We Didn't Start the Fire" online with links to each historical event? Very cool!! And already done by : Mr. Allsop, a professor at Kings College in the UK. Like any of my good ideas, someone has already thought of it first. Here's the link: http://www.teacheroz.com/fire.htm. The page also has a pretty sweet video at the top.

The song "We Didn't Start the Fire" is what first got me interested in international relations. I remember learning all the words and impressing/annoying a van full of my fellow debaters on the way to and from tournaments. That was at the height of my dorkiness and I think posting this link here only marks my slow and steady return.

Rock on Billy Joel. Rock on.

Go Sell Crazy Someplace Else

I'm in the open reading room of the National Library of Estonia. Probably one of the most heavily guarded sites in Estonia. To get into the inner sanctum of reading rooms, first, you must check your coat and your purse if it is "dangerously" large. Then you have to scan your library card (30 kroons for 3 years) before passing a guard and a metal detector. The guard makes sure that your card is current and then he eyes your lap-top bag suspiciously until you show him that you aren't packing heat. I'm led to believe that this process is safe, secure and efficient. I've been turned back before for wearing a light blazer and carrying my tote-bag with my wallet, notebook, and notes inside.

A crazy lady is sitting across the room alternatively mumbling and shouting to herself. She's wearing a jacket.

Do-over Prom

I'm going to the Marine Ball tonight (i.e. the Adult Prom) dateless. Just like the real prom. I'll have a good time regardless. Just like the real prom. There will be an open bar and drinking is encouraged. Unlike the real prom.

Incriminating pictures will be forthcoming.

"Insert Clever Name Here"

Attention blog readers:

This may be my last post before I go completely nuts! I've had a pretty stressful week for a few reasons. My Fulbright application was due. I'd like to say it went off without a hitch but what I can say is that the mutual screw-up of two groups of people may work to my advantage.

Tallinn University is still being a thorn in my side. I'm supposed to access lectures from the server, but, alas, it is Wednesday and the lecture from last Friday has not been posted yet. One of my classes was canceled completely and the course I can take falls when Rebecca is working. So even though she's working part-time I still can't go to class. Bygones. It's like taking away something I didn't have in the first place.

I might be going to St. Petersburg over Christmas. I'd be the travel along nanny. I've always wanted to go to Russia, but not on someone else's dime.

I've got my ticket for the Marine Ball in November, but really don't have anything to wear. How 'bout a nice black dress and a pashmina? Understated, refined, in my closet...

I had dinner with the librarian action figure last night. She's pretty cool/down to earth. She says the darndest things. I can't wait 'til I'm old and can say quirky things and be praised for it.

I'm getting a bit restless. If anyone is in Tallinn anytime soon let me know.

Life Imitates Arst

I got an Eastern European flu shot today. Afterwards the nurse asked if I wanted a booklet that described the possible side effects. Turns out it was only in Estonian, Russian, and Latvian. Oh well. By then the potent virus was already in my system.

The doctor's office is called "Sinu Arst" which means "Your Doctor" in Estonian. I got my shot at the arst, but not in the "arst". I had already been there to get my health insurance. I was kind of looking forward to seeing a new arst.

The jokes are endless.

The Sideways Orchestra

I filmed this on one of the squares in Riga, Latvia a really long time ago. I guess I should have filmed it the other way. Now I know that you can't flip/rotate video. Enjoy!

Riga Revisited

I recently heard from one of the friends I made at the hostel in Riga. He sent me a link to his Bebo.com account. It's like Irish MySpace. He had a pretty cool slide show of photos from Riga/Franks/Tallinn. I don't look as bad as I thought I did, so I'm posting them here.

This is not me. It's a glass of Estonia's second beer from it's second city Tartu.

Town Hall Square at night. Not the first picture I have form this locale.

Shaken and blurred. Girl at the Russian pub in Latvia mixing a drink.

This is exactly how I looked for three weeks.

Get this party started.

Random people making out.

Picturesque

I wish I could take credit for these pictures and their clever captions, but I cannot. The photographs were taken by a friend of mine, and I just thought they deserved some web-licity. Enjoy!

Fiery Estonian Sunset;


Zoom in on Fall Foliage;

Russian-Estonian Crosses Near Lake Peipsi;

Rainbow Over a Parking Lot;


And, of course, Natalie.

Mating Season

Here are some photos of fall in Estonia. Fall happens to be my favorite season. The changing leaves reminds me of my own mortality.

I once read an article that explained how fall is the season for hook-ups. When the season changes from warm to cold men (and women) start looking for a warm body to snuggle up with for the winter months. So instead of a May-September romance, people are looking for something to get them from September to about mid-February (depending on what climate region you're living in, of course, and what your Valentine's Day budget is looking like). Men also feel more secure in their relationships during the cooler seasons because their women are wearing turtlenecks and thick sweaters.

Sunset off the balcony


Me enjoying the season.

The New (Old) Me

I got my hair cut. It's exactly the way it used to be - but with bangs. I'm so happy to not have that curly mop anymore it's unbelievable! This is me in classic Amy pose. This is the face I feel like I make the most often. I'm not that bad looking.



I have a couch surfing engagement next Monday evening. Some guy from the Netherlands contacted me and asked if I could show him around on Monday or Tuesday. Clearly I cannot take the baby to meet some weirdo so I'm taking my new friend Suzanne. I'm pretty stoked.

Again I must say that I feel quite comfortable in Estonia - more so than South Dakota. I feel independent - and cool. As we were leaving the VIP lounge at one of Tallinn's hottest clubs the other night - my buddy remarked how easy it is to feel cool in another country, especially considering we were let in for free by a journalist for the most watched television station.

But, I'm a nerd at heart. Check out how much I look like a librarian in the above photo. Enough said.

Fear of Homophones

I went to a concert last night sponsored by the U.S. Embassy in honor of a U.S. diplomatic courier who gave his life for his mission. The concert was held in a Swedish church in Old Town. I was really excited to see this chorale concert. I told everyone how much I was looking forward to the violin music and the singing. Much to my disappointment (and embarrassment), there was no singing. I now know the difference between "choral" and "chorale". Kinda like the difference between "gorilla" and "guerrilla". They sound an awful lot alike, but if you mess them up you could end up dead - or at least making a fool of yourself. I'm afraid it will happen again. I guess that makes me homo-phobic.

The best laid plans.

Two weeks ago I returned to Estonia... barely. When I went to the bus station to take the next bus to Tallinn, it was full. Not to be dissuaded, I scoped out the crowd waiting to board the bus and found a nice Estonian girl to ask the bus driver if I could buy a ticket. I wasn't taking any chances.

I made it on the bus and sat in the very front. I like the comfort of knowing that if there's a head-on collision I will be the first to die.

I called my friends from the bus station to let them know they should leave to pick me up. When they yelled at me, I knew I was back.

Natalie recognized me the next morning, and we're now closer than ever. I even almost taught her to sing her ABC's today. She's almost 9 months old, but she likes to imitate people. I also saw her do an awesome spin around and land on the floor move today from standing up by the cookbook shelf. It was like watching a stunt double. She barely cried.

School is a different story. Estonians are, how can I put this delicately, not detail-oriented. I am constantly feeling like the pushy American who can never have things just right. But, did you know that at Tallinn University you only pay by semester and not by the credit hour? That means you can take as many courses as you want - for FREE!! I love learning. I love Europe.

It's starting to get chilly here in Estonia. This is sauna weather. And heated floor tile weather. And roasted almond weather. And all of that can be found right here in Tallinn.

My permit has come in!!

I went to the Estonian Embassy in Riga this morning and they told me that my pass hadn't arrived. I was livid. But, as it turns out, they just hadn't opened the package that it was in. So, because some incompetent person who didn't open all the mail, I almost had to wait another week here in Riga.

On the way back to the hostel I promptly walked past the Freedom Monument and took a picture of myself. And then all the way walking back I was protecting my bag as if someone was going to try to rob me now that I had something worthy of stealing. And I was extra careful as I was crossing the streets as if I was going to get hit by a car or something.

Me + the Freedom Monument.

This is the happiest I have been in a LONG time!!! :)

Thwarted Again

I just called the Estonian Embassy in Riga who said that their diplomatic pouch deliveries only arrive on Thursday. Which means when they told me that I may be able to get my sticker on Monday or Tuesday - they were lying to me. Additionally, I'm supposed to register for classes on Thursday and have orientation which seems impossible when I have to wait for the pouch and then wait for a bus.

For f*$#% sake Estonia! All I want to do is come to your country, go to school, and abide by your laws. This blog is looking less like the "Chronicles of Estonia" and more like the "Saga of Estonia".

How does he do it?

I'm staying at the place I stayed the last time I was in Riga: Fun Friendly Frank's Hostel and Guesthouse and I have one question: How does he do it??

1. It's the cleanest hostel I've stayed at.

2. You get a free beer when you arrive.

3. There are people hanging out at all hours at the 24 hr bar - and it's quiet in my room.

4. Everyone speaks English very, very well.

At the hostel I stayed at in Prague all anyone wanted to do was sit around and smoke pot and speak French, and since I don't do either I ended up hanging out in my dimly lit room most of the time.

I stopped at Stockmann's when I got here for some snacks/meals for the next few days. I picked up some peanut butter called "Nicks: The Easy Rider". It even has a stamp on it that says "The American Way of Life". I'm glad I got to see Prague, but come on you can't beat the livin' in Riga.



I think I'm going to go see an American movie today. And one of the girls in my room (her name is Ula) told me about a music festival that's going on right across the bridge. They have electronic and ambient music for 24 hours - starting yesterday at noon. I'm going to go check it out. Should be a hoot. Too bad I didn't bring any glow sticks.

My Last Day in Prague/Back in Lith-waynia

My last breakfast at the hostel seemed like some kind of a moral test. They gave me an extra roll with my cereal and fruit. I'm not sure why, but I didn't say anything. I remember eyeing the rolls, though, and thinking how much I wanted one. The breakfast lady gave the next guy an extra roll, as well. I took advantage of the newbie breakfast lady's error. That breakfast really did fill me up, though... with guilt.

During breakfast, some guy at the hostel was standing in the hallway barefoot. That's a bold move for a hostel. I think there are at least two degrees of a man - fellow and dude. "Now there is a nicely dressed older fellow talking to the barefoot dude."

On the bus to Vilnius, I was sold seat #3 - the co-bus driver's napping seat. So, I just sat a seat behind there. Well, of course someone was supposed to sit in that seat, and so I played musical chairs until I found one that no one kicked me out of. It was one of the dirtiest buses I have ever been on. It was one of those operated for EuroLines by a private contractor. Basically, one guy says to his buddy, "Hey, I'm thinking about buying a bus. You in?" So these two yahoos are driving a bus full of people between the Czech Republic and Lithuania for awhile.

The bus did show two DVDs in Russian for entertainment. One was "Brigada" a TV series about the Russian mafia, I guess. I don't speak too much Russian, but I understood most of it. And after that they played Lawrence of Arabia - also in Russian. Pretty cool.

When we were on the bus waiting to leave Prague I'm pretty sure some Spanish speaking guy got on and yelled at a couple of girls on the bus. He was maybe their father because it sounded something like "It you go to Vassava (Warsaw) I hope you die there!" Then he made sounds like crashing and exploding. I can't be sure, though. I've started hearing what I want to hear when people speak in a different language. Maybe he said, "Have a wonderful time in Poland. I'll miss you! If you go swimming do a cannonball off the high dive for me! (crash/splash)"

We crossed the border between Poland and Lithuania at about 5 a.m. The border guard audibly sighed and said increduously, "Ugh American" when I showed him my passport. That means that (Ugh) he actually has to get off the bus and stamp it in his little office.

Vilnius was hot and muggy when I arrived. I went back to the same hostel I stayed at before and the same Lithuanian guys are still hanging around here. One of the other guys I met is back, too. I would stay longer, but they put me in a basement room and I think it has recently been flooded, or there are cracks in the foundation and standing water under the carpet. The receptionist kept asking me if I was sure I only wanted to stay one night. After seeing that room? Yes. I'm positive.

So, I will go to Riga, Latvia today to stay at Fun Friendly Frank's Backpacker's Hostel. And that's where I will bide my time until Estonia decides the let me back in. My passport sticker should be at the Estonian Embassy on Monday or Tuesday. Can't wait!

Day 11

Circled the wagons for tonight.

Joseph shot 2,500 lbs of meat, was only able to bring back 100 lbs.

Plan to ford the river tomorrow.

Susy has cholera.

The Czech Republic

I made it! The bus ride was actually not as long as I thought it was going to be. The Czech countryside is beautiful and it's the first time I've experienced elevation in a long time. I think my ears even popped.

I was a little on edge as we passed through Poland. I don't know what it is, but that country has always freaked me out. I do have some pangs of guilt however about not going to Warsaw and Krakow to see the holocaust memorials. Family legend has it that my Grandpa Edward Westgard was in the first company to liberate one of the concentration camps. Maybe I could have seen a picture of him that would have confirmed what my dad has been telling me for as long as I can remember.

The hostel I'm staying at is the barest of bare bones that a hostel can be. I'm in what looks like a 5th grade classroom with 7 beds in it. It's ... cozy.

Even there I have to pay for the internet - 50 kc it cost me for about an hour last night. The internet cafe I'm currently at is charging 39 kc which is about $2/hour. I kind of miss E-Stonia.

I bought a book this morning by native Czech Ivan Klima called "The Spirit of Prague". It is very enjoyable reading and just the thing I was looking for about this city. It confirms my suspicions that this is an artists paradise filled with coffee shops and cheap beer. Very agreeable so far. My guide book lists a chain of vintage clothing stores that I'm going to check out later today. I also had some of the best Thai food I've ever had at this restaurant called "The Lemon Leaf".

My days are blurring into each other. I find myself envying those who live in beautiful cities like this and have jobs. I really want to be employed in doing something - you know. Be able to work for something and feel a sense of accomplishment at a job well-done. That's one thing that Wal-Mart had going for it. You could do a project, and do it right, in a very brief period of time. No "life's work" projects - which is probably the direction that my life is heading. A friend of mine once said something to me about this very thing. I'll paraphrase, "Producing something on a farm is different than working in an office. Maybe you have something to show for it like memos and cables and charts - but nothing tangible that really changes. And you don't really have to sweat for it."

This same friend also pointed out something profound in the movie "Schindler's List" that is so allegoric to life. The detainees are trying to build a structure of dorms, or something like that. One woman says, "You're doing it all wrong and this building will collapse within the year. This is how you should do it." The German guard pulls out a gun and shoots her. Then he says, "Do everything like she said." So poignant. Also like my experience at Wal-Mart.

I will have more to write later. I'm also "logging" my travels in a notebook I bought in Latvia. As I'm writing, I imagine that one day my daughter might feel like taking the same route through Europe that I took in 2007. Kinda cheesy, eh?

"The Diary of A. F."

Day 3 update: I'm still ALIVE!

I was out all day today. I like Vilnius - except that I think pretty much everything is going to be closed on Sunday. The neighborhood I'm staying in is like the Venice Beach of the Baltics. Very artsy with many galleries and so on. My bus leaves at 8 p.m. on Monday so I will have that day, too, to wander around.

So far, I like Latvian beer, but I stood in line with all the other young houlligans at the market and bought the same beer they did: Taurus Pilsner. It was only 1.9 Lt which is less than $1 for a big can. So, what the heck? I like it in the can... (I can't take credit for the originality of that disgusting joke, nor can I vouch for its validity.)

I went to the Lithuanian History Museum today. Did you know that in 1776 when we were declaring our independence all of the small municipalities in the countryside lost their soveriegnty? Also, there was a section of the museum for the deportations. I got a little perspective on my own deportation. Maybe I should have gotten off the bus at the border, and then snuck back in through the wheat field and became a "Partisan".

On a side note, in the Lithuanian History Museum I also saw the "tusk of a narwhal". Sounds like something out of Harry Potter to me...

A "narwhal"

Ironically, the Lithuanian History Museum contains an extensive collection of stamps dating back to the 18th century. Part of the reason that my visa agent wouldn't accept my paperwork is that it was not sufficiently stamped. How does one test the validity of a fax with a stamp on it? By signing it, dating it and writing "True and Correct Copy", of course. Soviet bureaucracy rises again.

Alight. I'm going to write in my journal. (Yes, I also bought a journal for the occassion.) It's like "The Diary of A. F.". I'm thinking of donating the flip-flops I wore in exile to the Estonian Occupation Museum.

Ok, enough deportation jokes... for now.

Amy, Amy: One Girl's Erotic Journey from Tallinn to...

I have been deported from Estonia. My residency permit didn't come through. Not only that, but now the Citizenship and Migration Board tells me I cannot be in the country until school begins on August 30. Soooo, that puts me.... on the lam.

Yesterday, my last legal day in Estonia, I boarded a 6:30 p.m. bus for Riga, Latvia. I made it across the border before midnight and am now staying at a hostel in Riga. Tomorrow I will take a bus to Vilnius, Lithuania where I will spend 3 nights and then... get this... I will get on a bus for 18 hours to travel to Prague!! Pretty sweet, huh?

If I can't stay in the country I want to stay in, why not have fun while I'm in exile? I'll be in Prague for just over a week "Czech"-ing things out. Then who knows where I will go. Doesn't really matter. I'm a backpacker, you know? I just have to be in Riga... sometime... to pick up some sticker so that I can re-enter Estonia... eventually.

Riiiiiiga

I just signed into this blog-site in Latvia. Paldies "guess and check"! (Thank you! in Latvian.)

I would say that the bus ride down here from Tallinn was pretty uneventful, except that it wasn't. One of the Russian speaking men in the back of the bus was trying to smoke a cigarette which set the smoke alarm off. The bus driver proceeded to pull over to the side of the road, walk to the back, and deal one square slap on this guy's cheek. Then, without saying a word the bus driver took his station again at the wheel and we drove on towards Riga.

The hostel was really easy to find as it was only a five minute walk from the bus station. Upon arrival at my hostel I recieved a free beer as promised by the literature online. The atmosphere was pretty hoppin' for a Wednesday night, and there was more to follow.

Our host led us down the street to a club where we waited outside to get in. As we were waiting we witnessed some Latvian aggression being taken out by some big bouncers on the indefensive body of some little (probably smarmy) dude. It was like a movie - I hardly believed my eyes. We did not go in that club after that, but kept moving onto another more expensive, less violent establishment.

I've learned alot about culture since being in Latvia. I've learned not to let Chilean guys buy you drinks or accept their offers of cigarettes. I've learned that Basques sing when they are drunk. And I've learned that McDonalds has what's called the McWalk which serves the McLavash deep into the McNight.

Today I visted the Latvian History Museum which turned out to be very interesting. There were exhibits of tools and national costumes. The costumes are made of wood and I can see why considering that it was 70 degrees F today, but in the breeze off the Daugava River it was quite chilly.

On a more creepy note, I passed a guy on the street wearing a South Dakota t-shirt. Naturally I assume that, since the state is so small, we all should know eachother - or at least use the family whistle when we meet overseas. This guy clearly didn't notice my "South Dakota-ocity" because he kept on walking. On a whim, I decided to follow him in the hopes of "accidentally" running into him and making conversation. I followed him, undetected, for at least a km through the Old Town area. He eventually made his way to the Latvian Film School. There was no chance of me, a tourist from Tallinn, having a good excuse for ending up in the Latvian Film School so I let him get away. Probably for the best. How creepy am I?

I'm going to catch up on my sleep now so that I have the energy to explore Riga some more. And by explore Riga I mean find a nice kafejnica to sit in and read Hilary Clinton's autobiography. I talked to a girl from Dublin about literature last night and now I must read Ulysees. I also just finished "The Good Earth" by Pearl S. Buck. It had some generally applicable themes that I was probably not mature enough to pick up on in high school. Thank God my school was less than mediocre and we never had to read it.

Good night!

Beerfest

(loosely translated)

BEERFEST
Everything is 'Aight

Tough Dog

Rita - the stray from the mean streets of the D.R. (Dominican Republic) - is tough as nails, fierce as a dragon, and scared of slamming doors. When the patio door is open the air flow in the apartment causes doors to slam without warning which causes Rita to find me wherever I am and plant herself at my feet. I imagine she's thinking, "Hey. I, uh, heard a door slam. Thought you might be scared - you know, need some protection. So, I'm going to sit at your feet until you feel better. I mean, like, if that's cool."

Hey all you blog readers out there! (Readers plural? I hope.) I'm sitting in a bookstore - using the WiFi that I payed for from my cellphone. An update on my life - I've been watching Natalie progress from a baby whose only blip on the horizon was "Eat. Sleep. Poop. Sleep. Nap. Eat. Fart. Sleep." to a roly-poly little goober. Just like a proud nanny I've been taking lots of photos like this one. It's a baby in sheep clothing.



And this one. Yeah, I styled her hair like Dwight K. Schrute from The Office.




I recently traveled to Finland for Jaanipaev - Midsummer's Festival. It's like the Fourth of July and Christmas all rolled into one for the Estonians. We stayed at some "cottages" in the Finnish Archipeliego. Listening to Johnny Cash and drinking beers while someone makes you pancakes - does it get any better than that? Oh yeah, then you go in a HOT sauna and afterwards jump into the Baltic Sea. That's how it gets better.

Well, I accidentally futzed around long enough before writing this blog and used all of my battery. There will be more to come later. I assure you.

The Dentist

I went to the dentist today (and no her name was not Crentist) to see if she could pull my wisdom teeth. She said that she can't, but she made an appointment (herself - not her assistant) with an oral surgeon for me. I was excited to learn that the tooth extraction will only cost about 40 bucks per tooth -- this includes the anesthesia, the doctor looking in my mouth, and the extraction - which should only take 10 minutes.

My visit today only cost 300 Estonian kroons. That's about 25 dollars for a consultation and x-rays.

Sweet.

Buttermilk Brulee

So I was all set to make some Creme Brulee for Hannah's b-day. Then I found out that there wasn't enough cream - so I thought I could just substitute buttermilk, but I'm in Estonia so it was actually keffir. Then I found out there was barely enough sugar. Then I found out that the cream that we had was spoiled. So, I made "Keffir Brulee". So, it was the Estonian twist on Creme Brulee - which wasn't terrible.

Then I found out that we don't have a broiler...

My First Play-Date

Well, it happened. I went on my first play-date today with Natalie and Rebecca. I never thought I would wind up there. All the mothers seemed very nice (not cooky at all). Rebecca went in an hour early so that she could come to the play date, and then she went to a meeting with parliament. She wishes she could come home and change the baby's diaper, and I wish I could be meeting with parliament.

I found this article today on Msn.com. Fitting, eh? "Moms and Nannies: A Complicated Relationship" http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/18942392/site/newsweek/?GT1=10056

Dog Whisperer

I don't know what it is, but dogs certainly seem to love me. The people I'm staying with have a rescue dog from the mean streets of the Dominican Republic. I've been here for 3 weeks, and recently she has started following me from room to room and laying down at my feet. I don't feed her, I just give her attention. If only this were the sole key to any relationship.

Couch Surfing

Ever been in Vanuatu and needed a place to crash? How 'bout tried to find someone to go out for drinks with in the Saudi Arabia? Well, have you tried www.couchsurfing.com? This site hooks up (for lack of a better term) travelers with places to stay in just about every country in the world. Just name your night and length of stay and you'll get treated to a couch, some conversation, and maybe a pillow or two. It's like hitch-hiking - but more dangerous because you intend to fall asleep in someone else's home.

Now, if I only had the balls to use it.

Long weekend.

I apologize for not updating this web-log in awhile. This past weekend was Memorial Day weekend, and I was outside away from the computer. Also, I did alot of shopping which was alot of fun - even though I didn't buy anything.

The most recent development in my life is that some new interns arrived yesterday and will be staying here for 10 weeks this summer. I'm glad that their trips coincide with mine, specifically that they arrived after me and will leave before me. I'm always looking for a way to overstay my welcome. :)

This week the French cultural arm in Estonia is co-sponsoring a film event with the American Embassy. A French film will be shown followed by the American remake - an "Anything you can do, I can do better" showdown. Last night, I saw "Pepe le Moco," and it was awesome. The setting is 1930s Algeria, a criminal "Pepe" is followed through his rise, well, fall mostly, at the expense of a Parisian woman - "Gaby." This woman is the type who is dating a man for his money, but has an affair with Pepe on the side. One of the best lines I have ever heard was in this movie. They just don't make 'em like they used to.

Pepe: What did you do before?
Gaby: Before what?
Pepe: Before the diamonds?
Gaby: I wanted them.

What a great line... It's like "What did you do before you had it all?" This movie truly rocked the Casbah.

Dear Diary...

What an accurate way to start out any journal. Don't you think?

Voisiku, Thursday, the twenty-sixth of May, 1827

First, let me record the occasion hat impels me to begin this journal. To begin, I say, because I have no way of knowing if I'll go on with it. It seems rather doubtful that I will: neither the times, nor the country, nor even our family seem right for such an undertaking.

This is the passage that starts out Jaan Kross' novel "The Czar's Madman." Kross is a pretty widely read Estonian author. I'm really enjoying Kross' novel which combines Russian history with Estonian history and place names. I get the feeling, though, that it can only be fully enjoyed if one has a background in Russian history.

S-A-T-U-R-D-A-Y... NIGHT!

So, it's a gorgeous Sunday afternoon in Tallinn, Estonia. I'm sitting at my usual wireless post -- the Double Coffee. It's great if you want to sit here for hours and not have anyone bother you, not even the waitress. :) I came in around noon expecting to download the season finale of "The Office" and have some lunch. Turns out, the kitchen is closed. At noon. On a Sunday. I love Estonia!!

Last night I had my first Hesburger with Juustu (cheese). Hesburger is the Finnish equivalent of McDonald's. The night started out at Estonia's first pub -- Hell Hunt -- and ended at a sports baar owned by an American. The bar is called "Nimeta" which means, in Estonian, "without a name", just down the street you find "Nimega", which means "with a name". Estonians aren't known for their sense of humor, but I think this takes the kook. (I apologize for not being able to put the right Fino-ugric letters in the Estonian words. If anyone knows how to paste into the blog box, let me know.)

In completely unrelated news, I have begun to teach myself Russian through the use of "A Spoonful of Russian" podcasts on iTunes. The host, Natalia, also maintains a blog of the lessons at http://speakrussian.blogspot.com. So far I can say "Hello", "How are you?", and "Not so good." Natalia also spices up the lessons with bits of Russian culture. I met a few people last night at Nimeta who studied Russian in Wisconsin. One guy has been in Russia for the last few months and plans to trek the Trans-Siberian Railroad to Singapore and then spend a few weeks in Australia. Pretty impressive, if you ask me. I still get chills just thinking about traveling to Russian, even though my poor white ass would probably be the perfect target for hooligans. I also met someone who spent some time in Georgia observing the transition to democracy under Dagashvilli (sp?). Amazing.

Well, I'm almost out of battery power, and the season finale of "The Office" is mine, so I must go send some postcards, and carry on with my charmed life.

Oh baby, baby...

This is the little stinker that I watch during the week. She's really loves it when I take her shopping. ;)

Shock and awwwwww...


"The Thinker"


Chunky Monkey

You're "Spit-fired"

As a faithful Wal-Mart employee for much of my working life, I have had plenty of opportunities to clean.... the shelves, the drains, the floors, the coolers, the freezers, underneath the gondolas..... In that time, one thing has always helped me out -- a little product known only as "Spitfire". I have never been able to find the open market equivalent of it, until now. This is a Kentish ale... though I think the Wal-Mart Spitfire is not meant to be ingested.....

You gotta fight.... for your right.... to RI-OT!!

The wake of the "Bronze Soldier Saga" is evident across Tallinn. Windows (mostly of Alkoholipood[s]) have been smashed in a few block radius of Tonismagi Square. The not-so-bright looters were even caught showing off in photos, published by the Estonian press, hoisting their spoils in the air and sporting idiotic grins. To give you some idea of the thoughts of the local shop owners, I snapped this photo while out walking.


Tonismagi Square has been completely renovated in an omage to the beauty of Estonian flora. From a distance this floral pattern resembles an Estonian flag.


These are all that remain of the red carnations that were stuck in the fence around Tonismagi Square to commemerate VE Day (Victory in Europe).

I'm a tourist.

Never roam alone.

Fake snow. Real Skiing.

I heart public transportation...

Mobile Sauna!!

Estonian's are known for their awkward food combinations. Double Coffee serves this tasty "Fresh Lemonade" (NB! Does not include lemonade). Yes, those are cucumber slices.

Home Sweet Estonia

I'm back. In Estonia. And I'm loving it. My room has the most amazing view of Old Town and the Bay of Finland. I couldn't ask for anything more.

On my first night back, I powered through my jet-lag by drinking. What better to beat the drowsiness than a mojito? All tolled, I ended up being awake for nearly 38 hours -- an achievement I rack up to my age and skills acquired from long hours of studying, of course. And, in an ironic turn of events, we ended up at the club where I had my Estonian-Reggae good-bye bash.

One of my host's buddies was an interesting American FSO serving in Bratislava, Slovakia. In my usual fashion, I managed to have a serious conversation at the bar. (It's like I'm deliberately trying not to have any fun.) He was very willing to allow me to question him down about his graduate school experience -- he attended a school that I desperately wanted to get into and seems to have some of the same goals and personality as I do. He had even worked with the U.S. representative who is currently representing my home state. The world is truly smaller than you think.

I can't wait to meet up with some of my old friends from Estonia -- and to make new ones. Some children my age will be showing up shortly -- I really want to be there as they discover the wonder that is Estonia!!

The Bronze Disaster

Estonia to Russia:

"Thank you for freeing us from Nazi Germany. No thank you for commandeering our independence."

The unasuming bronze statue of a soldier used to stand in Tonismagi Valjak in Tallinn, Estonia. The problem? The soldier also stood for, in the minds of many Estonians, the Soviet regime whose iron fist ruled Estonia from 1944 to 1991.

The Bronze Soldier has been removed from the square, but not the minds of the people of Estonia. As the unrest mounts, I return to Tallinn on May 3.

8 Days and Counting

I leave for Estonia in 8 days. 8 days to pack up my things, say good-bye to my friends, say good-bye to a job that I have grown accustomed to these last 4 years (and 8 months). Say good-bye to what has essentially been my comfort zone since leaving my parents' nest.

But it won't be the first time I've done this. I will be returning to Estonia for the second time. When I left at the end of the summer of 2006, I felt like I was being ripped from my home and the new life that I had created for myself. I never felt as homesick for America as I have for Estonia. I miss pankookid, and the sea, and my best friend Bridget ("Estonia Bridge" as she was affectionately called). Mostly, I think I missed the independence of it all. The free will to make the choices that I chose - and not being tied to a job that I despised. I missed the trust and confidence that I recieved from my peers, and the trust, confidence and kindness that I freely returned.

I'm so excited to go back that I'm nearly bursting!! This time will be different though. I will be watching the infant baby of some friends that I made while I was there before. In return, they will finance my habits - eating, drinking, sleeping in a comfortable bed.

I've spent the last 8 months living in a life that I have outgrown. I've never had too much patience for patience. I think I'm ready to get on with my life and I will be doing just that...in 8 days.